After six hours to Los Angeles, an awesome dinner with my
cousins, then another twelve plus hours across the vast Pacific expanse, I
finally landed thirty minutes outside Auckland this morning. Monday morning
that is.
The drive to City Center during rush hour was unlike any
commute I have ever made before, having nothing to do with the fact that my
taxi was driving on the ‘wrong’ side of the road. The trip was beautiful. One
is never more than eighty miles from water’s edge in New Zealand, and numerous
waterways flanked the highway. The North Island hillsides were a lush green my
camera simply cannot convey sufficiently.
Halfway to my destination, we left the highway with the
regular commuters to wind through the small suburb of Epsom en route to
Auckland. It is the middle of summer here, but it is still the school year, and
every kid walks to school – nearly all of them seemingly in uniform. Most
storefronts displayed the goods and wares of local businesses; global chains
were few and far between.
Auckland rises out of nowhere, a center of commerce whose
skyline is defined by Sky Tower – New Zealand’s rendition of the Space Needle
in Seattle. I am still unclear about what offices operate out of the city’s
tallest structure, but I do know that bungee jumpers are permitted to leap off
one of the upper ledges of the building. Imagine that happening at the Comcast
Center! But that is New Zealand for you…
After dropping off my luggage at the hotel, I walked around
the city (more on that shortly) before heading to the zoo. The flora
everywhere, and especially at the park where the zoo is located, is unlike
anything in America and breathtaking. Aside from feeding a giraffe (and seeing
its one-month old daughter) I focused entirely on the native New Zealand species.
First, the one bird for which I do not have a suitable
picture: the infamous and beloved Kiwi. I did finally see one – two actually –
for the first time in my life, and they exceeded all expectations. These are
beyond goofy creatures. They have no wings, and maneuver across the forest
floor via an odd combination of waddling and running. One chased after the
other relentlessly, but since the birds are nocturnal and the exhibit was
accordingly dark, I could not get an adequate picture of New Zealand’s national
pride and symbol.
The two birds that stuck out were two I had not heard of
before. The Tete (or Campbell Island Teal), a flightless bird and one of the
smallest ducks in the world, was once found exclusively on a tiny island
several hundred kilometers south of South Island. When rats invaded this small
land mass, the bird was nearly wiped out – a familiar plot line for many New
Zealand birds. However, in this case, the species was saved; through rebreeding
programs on the mainland and the eradication of rats from the native land,
several hundred Tete have now retaken their rightful home.
Sharing the exhibit with the Tete is the Antipodes Island
Parakeet, which exists in the wild in a similarly precarious state. Unlike
other species, the small green bird was never decimated toward extinction.
Rather, strict measures have been implemented to ensure that the few humans who
do visit the island cannot carry rats or any other threatening animals with
them.
Here is also a picture of the Tuatara, which I briefly
mentioned in my last post, and I will elaborate more on at a later point.
Back in City Center, I could not help but notice the
similarities between Auckland and my beloved Philadelphia. Both possess rich
dining and culture, relative to their respective nations, and both have a
neighbor city across a waterway. (That being said, Davenport is a quaint town,
unlike Camden, and the universal friendliness and hospitality here certainly
keeps murder rates significantly lower.) Both have underutilized waterfronts
resulting from decades of commercial focus at the docks; running and biking
trails drive locals toward the water, while ferries attract tourists. At least
Auckland has some waterfront restaurants next to the infinite docks. As New
Zealand has only grown into its own in recent decades, Philadelphia has a
history and a character that Auckland cannot possibly possess at this point in
time.
I walked along the water before catching a bus to nearby
Mission Bay. Imagine my amazement when just ten minutes later, I arrived at a
small strip of cafes, green parks, and a beach more comparable to Compo (to
those Connecticutians reading) than the Jersey Shore. I sat on a small strip of
beach for the next hour, watching sailboats pass by and teens practicing rugby
on the sand.
The United States has an amazing diversity of ecosystems and
destinations, but they are usually spread out, separated by states and
sometimes time zones. New Zealand has everything condensed into two small
islands. The fact that within my first twelve hours in this country, I went
from countryside to city, park to beach, all with relative ease, is only the
beginning. By next Tuesday, I will have encountered so much more.
At Customs, they make sure that you have definite plans to
leave the country, because apparently they are having some problems with people
who simply stay indefinitely. I have begun to understand why someone would not
want to leave. This is a paradise prism
with a dazzling spectrum of attractions and adventures. And tomorrow, my
journey will take me underwater.
Until then – kia ora!
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